The Landscape Company, Inc. | Robert Nivala | Hampton, MN | Phone: 612-282-7199 | Email Robert

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Landscape FAQs

Professional landscaping can add up to 15% to the value of your home.

A well placed shade or evergreen tree will provide shade in summer and protection from cold winter winds, thus effectively cutting your energy costs.

Winter is a season too! Use evergreens to provide color and substance, then add deciduous plants with interesting bark or colorful berries to liven up the landscape through the snowy months. The berries will also attract birds into your yard.

Day 1 – When tree arrives, it must be watered immediately! Fill air pockets around edge with dirt and trickle water at tree base until it is full.

Day 2 – Same as Day 1.

Day 7 - Same as Day 1.

Day 14 - Same as Day 1.

Day 21 - Same as Day 1.

After Day 21, perform Day 1 watering every 15 Days until the ground freezes.

Year One - When ground thaws, water your tree as you did on day one and every 30 days all summer; more often if extreme heat and dry conditions exist.

Year Two – Same as year one.

Year Three – Needs care only if extreme dry, hot conditions exist. A close eye is needed from you. If any leaves start to turn yellow in the summer, your tree needs watering.

NOTES:
  • Each location is different, high or low ground, heavy clay or sandy soil can change your tree watering plan.
  • Water from grass sprinklers will not go deep enough to reach your tree’s root system. The roots are 5 feet deep!
  • Normal rainfall during the first few years is NOT enough water for tree spade trees.
  • Improved uniformity
  • Increased density
  • Faster recovery from wear
  • Reduced use of water, fertilizer and chemicals
  • Reduced maintenance

For optimum growth, turf grass needs just four things (in the proper balance) to grow … sunlight, air, water and nutrients. Reduce any of these or provide too much of any one, and the grass may die or simply suffer. In the right proportions, the grass will flourish, providing not only beauty to the landscape, but also a clean and safe place to play and many benefits to the environment.

Grass obtains three of these four essential factors (air, water and nutrients) from the soil, but many soils are less than ideal fro growing grass. Some soils contain too much clay and may be very compacted. Great for roads, but bad for grass because air and water aren’t available to the roots and the roots can’t grow. Other soils may have too much sand. That’s beautiful on a beach, but difficult to grow grass because water and nutrients won’t stay in the root zone long enough for the plant to use. Another frequently observed problem with many soils is that the pH (the degree of acidity or alkalinity) is too high or too low for optimum grass growth.

Loams, sandy loams and loamy sands, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 are the very best soils for producing a beautiful, high-use, low-maintenance lawn. Unfortunately, this ideal soil mixture is seldom found on any property after construction.

The absolute minimum quality soil depth for a care-free lawn is 4 inches; however for deeper root penetration and the benefits that brings, the accepted standard is 6 inches.

Practically without exception, not only can most soils be improved, they usually need to be improved to get the maximum results with only a minimum of other ongoing effort. The knowledge of what’s necessary, the amount and availability of materials and the immediate costs of time and money are the factors that typically deter people from taking the steps necessary to improve the soil. While some people do not fully understand the importance of good soils for grass, many also believe they can save time and money by ignoring the need to improve their lawn’s soil. The fact is that failing to improve the soil before planting is only inviting a much greater and continual investment of both time and money, which will never return its value as fully as preparing the soil properly before planting any grass. It is important to remember that most warm season turf grasses can grow in a host of soils and adding a foreign soil can actually hinder root production. If you amend or modify your soil you must till it completely with the original soil to make homogeneous mixture. If you do not do this, results can be disastrous. It would be better to add no soil than to add soil and not thoroughly blend it.

“The beauty is in the blades, but the action is in the roots” is a good adage to remember when growing grass. Thus, the value of proper site preparation and soil improvement before any planting takes place, is that it will be easier for the grass roots to penetrate deeply and evenly. Deep roots will make the lawn more drought resistant, a more efficient water and nutrient user and more dense as new grass plant shoots emerge. A dense lawn will crowd out weeds and better resist insects and diseases.

Rate of growth refers to the vertical increase of growth unless specified differently. Rate, as in true for size, is influenced by numerous variables such as soil, drainage, water, fertility, light, exposure , ad infinitum.

The designation ‘slow’ means the plant grows 12″ or less per year; ‘medium’ refers to 13″ to 24″ of growth per year; and ‘fast’ means the plant grows 25″ or more.